SEMAINE HORLOGERE 2012 - Bovet & De Bethune Convert

These two independent brands exhibiting concurrent with the SIHH had a lot of bright and brilliant new offerings, many of which are transformable.

WORLDTEMPUS - 30 January 2012

Roberta Naas


Convertible watches have been a part of Bovet’s lineup for the past two years: these are watches that triple as wrist pieces or pocket watches and also offer the versatility of a free-standing clock. This year, as Bovet celebrates its 190th anniversary, the brand continues with its patented convertible system, bringing new haute horlogerie pieces to the forefront. In fact, the emphasis from the brand overall this year is on its hand-craftsmanship and finishes, including hand-engraving, enameling and gem setting in addition to top-quality movements. 

Bovet’s convertible Amadeo Fleurier as a 39 mm watch and long black pearl strand with 140 Akoya pearls for wearing the watch as a pendant © Bovet

Bovet convertible

Among Bovet’s newest convertible watches is a five-day hand-wound tourbillon big date in the Amadeo Fleurier series and a stunning new piece called Amadeo Fleurier Rising Star, whose concept and design originated at Dimier 1738, the brand’s factory in Tramelan. The caliber features both a triple time zone and a tourbillon and offers seven days of power reserve. Nearly three years in the design and development process, the watch and its design have amazing symmetry. The second and third time zones, with day/night indicators and 24-city disk, are perfectly balanced as subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The 46 mm hand-wound tourbillon timepiece features an exquisitely detailed and finished partial dial and a completely visible tourbillon at 6 o’clock; the tourbillon has been redesigned so that the carriage is 13.5 mm in diameter and appears to be suspended in mid air. 

This 46 mm Amadeo contains a triple time zone indication, a tourbillon and , seven days of power reserve and is called Rising Star © Bovet

Finally, in celebration of its 190th anniversary, Bovet has developed a superb high jewelry convertible Amadeo Fleurier 39 mm watch with a black mother-of-pearl dial with a diamond-set rose motif (110 diamonds) and a bracelet made of four rows of 80 Akoya black pearls. It also comes with a long black pearl strand with 140 Akoya pearls for wearing the watch as a pendant. In can also triple as a table clock. The watch is set with 227 diamonds on the bezel, bow and lugs. It is offered with an alternative black satin strap. Crafted in 18-karat white gold, the 39 mm watch is powered by a self-winding movement. There is also a rose gold version with a white mother-of-pearl dial and white pearl bracelet, but the black one seems to ignite mysterious passions more dramatically. 


Ten years of De Bethune

At De Bethune, celebrating its tenth anniversary of existence this year, convertibility comes in the form of a wristwatch, pocket watch and iPhone case cover. Building on a concept begun last year, De Bethune offers an extremely updated, streamlined, almost stealth-style highly polished bead-blasted titanium iPhone cover into which one can slip the watch portion of the wristwatch. It can also be converted into a pocket watch via an outer titanium case. The patent-pending DreamWatch IV is inspired in design by spaceships and certainly has futuristic appeal. The rich blue titanium dial is studded with gold and diamond stars for an almost dream-like appeal. Only twelve pieces will see the light of day. 

At De Bethune, convertibility comes in the form of a wristwatch, pocket watch and iPhone case cover in titanium © Roberta Naas

Also new this year is a series of twelve watches that celebrate the Mayan calendar, according to which we are entering the ninth underworld level of the cosmic pyramid, which symbolizes a new world with the highest evolution of consciousness. In homage to this passage into a new underworld, De Bethune presents an exceptional series of watches, each of which features a solid gold dial totally hand-engraved with different hieroglyphics by Michèle Rothen and enhanced by 31 flame-blued steel inserts. The hour circle displays numerals of belonging to the Mayan numbering system, while the inner ring presents twenty glyphs of divinities, animals and sacred objects representing the various days of the calendar. 

De Bethune’s Ninth Mayan Underworld features a solid gold dial hand-engraved with different hieroglyphics displaying Mayan numerals and calendar days © De Bethune