HERITAGE WATCH MANUFACTORY—Exceptional New Watch Debuts
GTE is going to be good for a number of surprises this year – not least among them the brand-new company founded in September 2010 in Neuchâtel masterminded by Karsten Fraessdorf.
WORLDTEMPUS - 6 January 2011
Elizabeth Lilly Doerr
Karsten Fraessdorf is not a household word in watchmaking, and this is primarily because the talented watchmaker has worked behind the scenes for his whole career – so far behind the scenes that consumers have not had a chance to get to know him. Until Chronoswiss introduced the infelicitous Sauterelle at Baselworld 2009, that is. On stage at its introduction celebration, Chronoswiss head Gerd-Rüdiger Lang publicly thanked Fraessdorf for his technical contributions, thereby bringing him into the much-deserved limelight.
Close to two years later, we find German-born Fraessdorf ensconced in Switzerland, having relocated from the Normandy region of France. Fraessdorf, also widely known as Frasdorf in the watch world (a “Frenchicized” version of his name), is now at home in Neuchâtel, where he is the head watchmaker for a new firm in private hands. Fraessdorf explains that Switzerland was a must for Heritage Watch Manufactory as the location to ensure the Swiss made quality he desired, and Neuchâtel is naturally of central proximity to suppliers.
The Tensus model will debut at GTE beginning on January 16 © Heritage Watch Manufactory
The debut pieces of this young company are called Tensus and Magnus, and it is no accident that their appearances – created by star designer Eric Giroud, by the way – are so classic and understated. “We make watches for connoisseurs who are smitten by the fascination of chronometry,” explains Christian Gütermann, member of the board.
Giroud comments his design, “Here, technology and visuals merge to become one holistically perfect work of art.”
The three-handed Magnus will be shown at GTE in two self-explanatory versions: Magnus Classic and Magnus Contemporaine. In a 42.5 mm stainless steel or gold case, it is powered by Caliber 800, which contains three pending patents. These patents concern elements that are pure Fraessdorf: the Vivax weight-regulated balance; the Tenere system for attaching the balance spring; and the Sectator mechanism for adjusting the pallet lever below the balance, which – according to the company – allows watchmakers to perfectly set its rate for the first time.
The company has five patents pending for Caliber 880 © Heritage Watch Manufactory
The Tensus model also measures 42.5 mm in diameter and is available in stainless steel and white or red gold. Its Caliber 880, comprising more than 300 individual components, contains not only the three technical elements mentioned above, but two additional subgroups meriting registered patents: designed for supreme accuracy, Fraessdorf’s Sequax triple lever escapement with double escape wheel and constant force. Another patent has been registered for the movement’s Pariter double spring barrel, providing 60 hours of power reserve (shown at 9 o’clock).
Fraessdorf sums up these two modern classics, which have cost him several years of development, “With these chronometers, we succeed in providing a fresh definition of the precision of mechanical wristwatches.”
Karsten Fraessdorf is now the technical genius behind Heritage Watch Manufactory © Heritage Watch Manufactory