JEAN DUNAND – The Spirit of the Machines

The Palace, the latest œuvre by Jean Dunand, finds its roots into the industrial revolution of the end of the nineteenth century.

WORLDTEMPUS – 17 March 2010

Louis Nardin and Elizabeth Doerr

La Palace © Jean Dunand

Louis Nardin and Elizabeth DoerrIt was the use of steel that formed the base of the industrial revolution : it was utilized for machines, motors, trains, tracks, and even buildings. Basic modular elements like the rivet and the girder were the building blocks permitting unthinkable constructions to this very day. Engineers and architects discovered a new field in which to play, and the novel technology and mechanics invited them to create unimaginable bridges, glass roofs, and spectacular edifices such as the Eiffel Tower. This epoch of progress, propagated by assembly line work, was the harbinger of a radical new world. The Palace, the latestoeuvre by Jean Dunand, finds the origins of its shapes in the architecture and civil genius of transportation and industrial development up to the close of the nineteenth century.

Thierry Oulevay, CEO of the brand, presents the Palace almost as if steam were escaping from the case’s figurative cracks.  ?After already having been inspired by art deco, we chose to occupy ourselves this time with the period preceding the flamboyant debuts of the industrial era. This purely technical world created its own set of aesthetic codes that were strong and unique at the same time. The Palace concentrates on these to find its quintessence.

Initiated in 2007, the project was mobilized by Christophe Claret, watchmaker and co-creator of the brand, and designer David Notario. Each piece was conceived and designed to exude the spirit embodied by Charlie Chaplins legendary feature film Modern Times–an important source of inspiration for the project. ?In order to execute certain finishings that serve as the gold decoration on the titanium pieces, we started from a totally new point of technology.

Comprising 67 components, the large case measuring 48 x 49mm was the source of long debates in order to find just the right shape.  After a multitude of attempts just to end up with an unsatisfying result, the solution came from a spontaneous sketch made by one of the engineers. The hands were no different : these needed six weeks and 250 drawings before they were deemed absolutely perfect.

A mechanical jewel, the Palace’s caliber includes a flying tourbillon with chronograph functions controlled by one single pusher and a GMT display. In particular, the visible transmission chain needing three years of research and development makes a strong statement. ?No other Jean Dunand caliber has demanded nearly as much effort ; each of these components were individually studied. And thanks to a sapphire crystal case back, it is also visible. To underscore the artistic work involved, we have opted not to add a dial.

Oulevay anticipates being able to deliver a dozen of these per year for an estimated price of about 400,000 Swiss francs.